5/8/2011 – Timbabiche, Day 1


I was sitting in the cockpit after breakfast this morning, finishing my second cup of coffee and reading H. Rider Haggard’s “Child of Storm”, when I noticed a panga approaching fairly fast. Since they buzz by us all the time, I didn’t think much about it. But then I noticed that he was headed right for us and slowing down. Oh good. I hope this is one of the fishermen we hear about who come around selling langousta (spiny lobster).He approached the boat. We exchanged greetings. Then he backed the panga up and cut the motor. Didn’t offer anything, just made small talk. Didn’t look like there was much in his boat other than a mess of nets. Finally I asked him if he had any fish. he said he had just one and also three lobsters. Did I want a fish? I told him I was more interested in the lobsters. He directed me to get a bucket which I did. From out of a heavy net bag he pulled three nice looking spiny lobster, still alive and kicking.


We weighed the langousta and agreed on a price. Next he asked if I wanted the fish. I thought he said that they would be a gift but I’m not sure I heard right. Before I could answer he asked if I had any “baterias pequenas” for his light (these guys stay out all night sometimes). I asked how many he needed and he said “four”. I said “for the fish?” and he said “Si, si.” So I had Lulu pull out 8 AA batteries. I told him that 4 were for the fish and 4 were a gift (un regalo). He was very pleased. He handed me up a good-size fish that he called a “pargo prieto” which my fish book identifies as a Pacific Dog Snapper. However, it looked more like the picture of the Halfmoon, a type of perch. he assured me that it was really good eating.

I spent the next hour relearning how to clean and filet a fish. Didn’t do too bad, considering. Stuck the filets in the reefer for tomorrow because tonight we’re feasting on langousta.

After all that we took a dinghy ride to the beach. It was quite a ways but the water was very calm so we rowed. I rowed over and Lulu rowed back. We hiked about 1/2 mile to see the remains of Casa Grande.


There is a tiny little village built around it, including a new-looking school. No stores or anything, just houses and the school.


When we got back to the dinghy, we spent a little time swimming to cool off before rowing back out to the boat.

We both took cockpit showers and then I started trying to make a cargo net out of some line that’s been getting in my way for a long time and Lulu read her book. As evening approached, I fired up some charcoal and Lulu made her famous vegetable noodles to go with the lobster. I grilled all three tails and we had them with melted butter and fresh-squeezed lime juice. Yeah, this is what we’ve been waiting for. A fine way to spend mother’s day.

Happy Mothers’ Day to all you mothers out there.

PS: This is the first anchorage either of us can ever remember in which NOBODY new came in during the day. El Tiburon left early this morning so it was just us, Sea Change, and Tequila Mockingbird all day.


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About sryoder

Steve & Lulu... retired. Had enough of the cold wet dreary fall/winter/spring in the Pacific Northwest. Bought a boat, fixed it up, sold our home and sailed to Mexico in November, 2010. Been here ever since except for occasional forays to the States (summer only, thank you) to visit the kids, parents and siblings. If you're looking for a sailing blog, this is the wrong place. This is a traveling, hunkering in, eating blog. Sailing is just how we get from place to place when we can't walk.
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