4/17/2012 – San Evaristo

Not heading out yesterday turned out to be a good decision. If only it was as easy to predict weather as it is to see it in hindsight. Let’s see, if seeing it in advance is “predicting”, does that make seeing it right now “dicting” and hindsight “postdicting”? Anyway, it blew pretty good out of the N and NW almost all day yesterday. The seas looked pretty choppy as well.

We took the dink ashore to get a few supplies at the tienda. I have to describe these little fishing village tiendas to you. I don’t like to take photos inside because it seems too much like pointing out to these folks that we find their normal way of life so peculiar that we have to photograph it. Maybe if there wasn’t a language barrier so I could explain why I wanted photos I could do it. But, since my Spanish is far from good enough to explain subtleties, I just skip taking photos. Just seems more respectful to not photograph every little thing.

Anyway, these tiendas probably look more like the back room of a little Mom and Pop grocery store than the actual store. First, in this case, you have to untie the piece of rope that holds the makeshift gate closed to keep the burros out (I guess) of the yard. Wait, did I mention that there is absolutely NO indication from the outside that this is a store and not someone’s house (which it also is)? You just have to know. Either you read about it in a cruising guide or someone else tells you. Anyway, after going through the gate and re-tying the “latch”, you walk up on a covered concrete porch and walk in through the open door. Inside, it’s a concrete room maybe 12′ deep by 30′ long lit only by the light coming in through the doorway and windows. The doorway is about 1/3 of the way along the 30′ side. Just inside the door, to the left, is makeshift plywood counter behind which the proprietress sits. On the counter is a roll of plastic bags and a few odds and ends. Continuing in a clockwise direction, you’ll see some shelves with various canned goods, paper products, health products, etc. On the floor in front of the counter is a big bag of onions and another of juice oranges. The shelves continue around with instant and regular coffee, a couple of kinds of salsa, refried beans, small cans of juice, etc. On the floor are a couple of open cardboard boxes. One contains potatoes, one has poblano chiles and another has some chiles that look like red poblanos. There’s a curtained doorway leading back into the living area and then another couple of cardboard boxes containing eggs. If you want eggs, you either take them in a plastic bag, bring an empty egg carton, or, like us, bring your plastic camping egg cartons. Continuing on around, there are more shelves with merchandise on them. At first glance, it doesn’t look like there’s very much there but, you can generally find what you’re looking for or at least a close facsimile. Along the front wall, under the window, are cases of soda and agua mineral.

We got a 12-pack of agua mineral, some onions, some of those red poblanos, two dozen eggs, and 2 two cans of refried beans. Put it all on the counter and the storekeeper weighed the produce, wrote some numbers down on a scratch pad and then told us what we owed. We packed the stuff up (bring your own bag) and trundled off. Next stop was across the bay to the palapa “restaurant” for a case of beer. I put restaurant in quotes because, although I’ve often heard it referred to as a restaurant, I’ve never seen any indication that it actually is one. But they do have a good supply of beer in the back and I got a case of Modelo Light (the only kind they had).

We talked to Steve of s/v Wilful Simplicity who, with his wife Charlotte, have sort of adopted San Evaristo. Steve was helping a couple fishermen repair their panga and Charlotte was teaching English at the school. We met Steve & Charlotte in Puerto Escondido last summer.

The south end of the anchorage was much choppier and windier than where we were anchored at the north end. We loaded everything in the dinghy and walked it out until our shorts started to just get wet. This was deep enough for the prop not to hit bottom, assuming we could get aboard and start the motor before the chop pushed us back into shallower water. We made it but just barely as the cloud of sand that the prop kicked up when first started attested to. The motor died twice on the way back. I think the fuel tank vent was partially plugged as loosening the fuel tank cap fixed it.

The rest of the day was filled with reading (me) and making a cockpit shower curtain while listening to NPR on our Sirius radio (Lulu). Had pizza for dinner, a couple shows and then a nice calm evening for sleep.

Looks like we’ll probably head out late this afternoon. Should be about a 14 hour trip to Ensenada Blanca (not 20-22 like I said yesterday). So, if we leave about 5 PM, we’ll have a couple hours of daylight left and then arrive at EB around 7:00 tomorrow morning.


About sryoder

Steve & Lulu... retired. Had enough of the cold wet dreary fall/winter/spring in the Pacific Northwest. Bought a boat, fixed it up, sold our home and sailed to Mexico in November, 2010. Been here ever since except for occasional forays to the States (summer only, thank you) to visit the kids, parents and siblings. If you're looking for a sailing blog, this is the wrong place. This is a traveling, hunkering in, eating blog. Sailing is just how we get from place to place when we can't walk.
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6 Responses to 4/17/2012 – San Evaristo

  1. Joan/Raymond Yoder says:

    Why would you sail in the night? Isn’t that dangerous not knowing what is ahead of you. Can’t see anything as far as I know there are no street lights in the ocean. Love, Mom

  2. I absolutely understand about not being intrusive with the camera. i find myself not taking photos from time to time for the same reason.Hope you are able to set sail and that the weather cooperates for you!

  3. Dani says:

    Great Visual, I felt like I was being led through a Mexican tienda!

  4. bud elkin says:

    Pictures are not necessary when you write so pictorially! Not to kick a dead horse, but I recently have found that if I check the pilot charts and compare them to several weather reports and the grib files, my chances of getting into unpredictable weather is less. But, with the past few years of unusual weather, all of my research still occasionally get me into bad weather. Such is the life of a sailor!

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