2/15/2013 – Another day at Santispac

Yesterday was Valentine’s Day and so, Lupe’s had a dinner special and a live band. We could not care less about Valentine’s Day, but the idea of having someone else make dinner, especially since we had no idea what we would make otherwise, sounded pretty good. We’d started out by taking advantage of the light winds to row Babalooie ashore. Wandered down the beach to check out the lagoon in the mangroves and then, on the way back, decided we really owed ourselves a beer or two. We stopped in at Lupe’s and sat at the bar. There were a lot more people there than had been there the first time we dropped in. We visited quite awhile with Aubrey, a single-hander with a little 20 footer anchored behind Isla Coyote and a little houseboat in Mulege. he’d ridden his bicycle down from Mulege to check up on his boat. Pretty interesting guy. He’s writing a book about something or other and it’s up to 2000 pages so far. Hope it’s as readable as it is large. Also got to meet Geary who does the weather on the Sonrisa Net in the mornings who was at Lupe’s for the weekly poker game.

While we were sitting at the bar we asked about the dinner. They were making beef shish-kebobs which would be served with rice and a cold vegetable salad for 100 pesos. Sounded good to us so, after another cerveza we rowed back out to the boat to rest up a little before dinner. Once 5:00 rolled around we rowed back over and found our previous seats at the bar still unoccupied so we grabbed them. The place filled up fast. It was kind of funny. All these women in various levels of finery. Some were honestly putting on the dog but others had sort of stylized red gowns and party dresses. They were lucky if their husbands bothered to change into a clean shirt. Lulu and I dressed exactly as we did every day since, to us, Valentine’s Day is just another day, albeit one designed to sell cards, flowers, candy, jewelry, etcetera and make men feel guilty.

The food was okay. The vegetables on the skewers were good but the meat was a tad on the chewy side. The band was Fast Eddie and the Slow Learners, your standard gringo geezer cover band. Everyone looked like they were having a great time when Lulu and I headed out at about 7:30. We were glad we’d thought to leave the anchor light on before we left or it might have been a little tough to find Siempre Sabado in the dark.

Today we decided to head back into Mulege primarily to stock up on Topo Chico (agua mineral) and cerveza. We caught a ride with Gordon and Lucy who have a little camp on the beach. Really nice couple. Both have been coming down to Mexico for many years. As has happened every time so far, they offered to give us a ride back if we met up with them when they were ready to leave. They chose El Cadel, a local restaurant/bar as the meeting place.

Lulu and I walked down to a grocery store called Mini Super Davis, but known more commonly as Saul’s. They were reported to have things like Italian sausage and other gringo goodies. When we got there we had to remember that our main reason for going to the store was to get beer and water and our packs were going to be heavy enough as it was. I didn’t see any Italian sausage but I saw bratwurst, Hebrew National all beef hot dogs, Polska Kielbasa, Bar-S hot brats, several kinds of pickles, pretzels, canned corned beef hash and who knows what all else. We decided we needed to come back tomorrow with empty packs and a full wallet and load up on these seldom-seen delicacies. We got our beer and our water, some oranges, a couple pineapples, a bag of pretzels, pineapple juice, mango juice, fettuccine, tomato paste, dried parsley, and a few other things and our packs were really heavy. We walked to El Cadel and found Gordon and Lucy in back. Lucy was using the wifi to shop for car insurance. We offered to buy them lunch and, happily, the agreed. Sometimes it’s hard to get folks to let you reciprocate when they do something nice for you.

El Cadel has a menu that is pretty evenly split between gringo food and Mexican food. The place caters primarily to gringos or, at least, that’s who almost all the customers were when we were there. They’re known for having very good food. Lulu and Lucy both opted for the French Dip sandwich with fries, one of the specials of the day. Gordon went with a ham club sandwich and I chose the pork enchiladas with rice and beans (same price as a sandwich). When the food came, everyone was pleased with their choices but none more than I. I got 3 enchiladas which were actually more like tacos since the tortilla was just folded over the filling rather than rolled. So, 3 medium sized corn tortillas with a healthy helping of carnitas inside, covered over with enchilada sauce and then topped with sour cream and guacamole. A larger then normal serving of rice and some really good beans filled the rest of the plate. I managed to eat it all but just barely. Certainly no room for dinner tonight.

We told Gordon and Lucy that we were going to come back again tomorrow to fill our packs with goodies from Saul’s. She said that she needed to come back tomorrow as well and offered us another ride. Said that the lunch we bought would more than take care of tomorrow’s ride too. This is working out really well. So far, every ride we’ve gotten into Mulege has ended up being a round trip.

The last few nights have been incredibly still. Last night not quite as still as the 2 before but pretty tranquil all the same. I’ve decided that the thumps we hear against the hull must be caused by large myopic fish bumping into the boat. Since we get thumped even on perfectly still nights, that’s the only answer that makes any sense. Tonight we’re leaving Babalooie in the water so that, when we do hear a thump, we can blame it on the dinghy hitting the hull.

The weather continues to be on the cool side. All the old timers keep saying they’ve never seen a winter this cold in all the years they’ve been coming down to Baja. The winds are supposed to start dying down on Sunday. Not sure when we’re leaving Santispac. Doesn’t matter that much since we’re just going to go down the bay a little further to El Burro Cove for awhile. Maybe we’ll leave on Monday. Maybe not.


About sryoder

Steve & Lulu... retired. Had enough of the cold wet dreary fall/winter/spring in the Pacific Northwest. Bought a boat, fixed it up, sold our home and sailed to Mexico in November, 2010. Been here ever since except for occasional forays to the States (summer only, thank you) to visit the kids, parents and siblings. If you're looking for a sailing blog, this is the wrong place. This is a traveling, hunkering in, eating blog. Sailing is just how we get from place to place when we can't walk.
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2 Responses to 2/15/2013 – Another day at Santispac

  1. MWhite:LittleCunningPlan says:

    Note to self: never, ever read this blog before dinner or when the least big hungry.

  2. Scott Wedge says:

    Speaking of strange weather, it hit 77 in Watsonville on Friday. It’s been like a little sumer in the middle of winter here. Record low rainfall so far this year, almost none since Dec. Nice, but very strange.

    Rain’s a’commin’, they’re saying. On Tuesday there may even be snow on the local hills, if we believe what the weather-guessers are guessing. So this coming week may be our winter, after that, who knows?

    It is not that there hasn’t been any weather, just that it hasn’t been here. That east coast blizzard last week was partly made of stuff that went past us up north before dropping down to hammer Boston. Sam, how’s it been up your way?


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