4/7/2013 – Bahia Marquer and Punta Colorada

I responded to a comment a little while ago saying that I was under the impression that all the islands in Baja are owned by the government. Apparently I was wrong. Although there is a National Parks of Loreto sign posted at Puerta Ballandra on Isla Carmen, at Bahia Marquer, further south on the island there is a “No Trespassing – Private Property” sign instead. Oh well, didn’t look like there was much of a trail away from the beach anyway.

We arrived at Bahia Marquer on Friday afternoon. We didn’t really do much on Friday except row ashore for a few minutes and then made a very half-assed attempt at fishing. Yesterday, we went ashore again. There was a 2-speedboat party on the beach who we stopped and talked to. Hard not to be friendly to people who open the conversation by saying, “We’ve been sitting here admiring your boat.” The party was made up of, if I remember right, 6 adults and a couple of kids. One of the couples was from Puget Sound and had actually been cruisers down here in the 80s. They must have been pretty young as they didn’t look as old as we are. We wandered on along the beach as far as we could go with Lulu looking for, hanging on to, and ultimately discarding various shells. A couple of small colorful pieces of shell did actually make it back to the boat, which is unusual. The speedboaters gave us a couple pieces of pear and a bag of watermelon slices, all nicely chilled.

In the late afternoon, s/v Alta May and s/v La Querencia with Caleb aboard, arrived but they anchored way over on the other side of the bay. Maybe we should shower more.

Our plan had been to start circumnavigating Isla Carmen in a clockwise direction which would take us from Bahia Marquer back up to Puerta Ballandra. But, although the internet connection was weak and iffy, I did manage to see some weather sites. They indicated that, starting Sunday afternoon, the predominant wind was going to switch to the west and actually get strong-ish from the west on Monday. That would make both Marquer and Ballandra exactly the places NOT to be as both are wide open to the west. So, we shifted plans and charted a course for circumnavigating the island counterclockwise with our first stop being Punta Colorada.

We woke this morning to a very unusual sight. The whole bay was socked in with fog. The area right around us was sort of clear but we could not see the boats on the other side of the bay. Nor could we see the mainland. Throughout the morning the fog moved around. Sometimes we were completely socked in, then we’d see the mainland for awhile then it’d be gone, then things would be almost clear, then we’d be socked in again, etc. At one point, not 100′ off our bow, there was, in the thinning fog, the coolest white rainbow. Never seen anything like that before. It was a regular rainbow arch but all white. Finally, about 1100, the fog completely dissipated and we got underway. The trip was only about 10 miles so it wouldn’t take more than 2-3 hours.

During the trip, Lulu ran the watermaker and the tank was actually full by the time we anchored. Very uneventful, mostly windless trip but very nice. Sunny and warm.

We anchored at Punta Colorada at about 1345 in 20′ of water with 100′ of chain out. The bottom is sandy. Being wide open to the Sea of Cortez, the anchorage tends to be a bit rolly. This might be why you don’t see many boats on this side of the island. Not everyone can put up with the level of rolliness that we can. However, right now we’re both thinking that we wouldn’t mind if it settled down a little just to make life a little easier.

There is also a Private Property sign posted here. We probably won’t go ashore and will just stay the night. Tomorrow we’ll make the big 10-mile jump to Bahia Salinas where there is the remains of an old salt-harvesting operation. Old buildings and such. The guidebook makes it sound like we will be able to go ashore there although we need to ask permission of the caretaker to explore the town. There are also some trails to hike. The bay is better protected from the wraparound swell than this one is and we should be able to tuck up inside for a smoother stay. Hope so as we may be there for a few days. The weather gurus are calling for relatively strong northerlies starting Tuesday and lasting a couple days. All the anchorages after Bahia Salinas, until we reach Ballandra again, are wide open to the north.

We’re completely out of internet range again so I’m posting these via Sailmail. As always, I won’t be able to read or respond to your comments until we reach “civilization” again. But please comment anyway.

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About sryoder

Steve & Lulu... retired. Had enough of the cold wet dreary fall/winter/spring in the Pacific Northwest. Bought a boat, fixed it up, sold our home and sailed to Mexico in November, 2010. Been here ever since except for occasional forays to the States (summer only, thank you) to visit the kids, parents and siblings. If you're looking for a sailing blog, this is the wrong place. This is a traveling, hunkering in, eating blog. Sailing is just how we get from place to place when we can't walk.
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3 Responses to 4/7/2013 – Bahia Marquer and Punta Colorada

  1. Jay says:

    Steve, the private property at Puerto Balandra you spoke of belongs to Carlos Slim. He somehow bought Government property for his private hunting lodge. He stocked it with wild mountain goats for him and his friends to hunt for trophies.

    Two years ago I took you fishing for Dorado in Bahia Salinas on Wind Raven, and yes the caretaker is very hospitable.

    I am the only sailboat boat anchored in Ensenada Blanca after 55 knot winds last night other than a large power boat.. The other three headed for PE.We left La Paz Sunday morning about 10am and that night sailed in up to 32 knot winds all night. Then for most of the rest of the trip under 22 to 28 knot winds, and we call this FUN?

  2. Don says:

    Jay: Carlos Slim has stocked Isla Carmen with desert bighorn sheep from the Sierra Blanca on Baja. Texas State Parks is involved. Slim charges huge money to kill big rams, uses the $ for restoration efforts on the islands and mainland (I heard). Several sites googlable on this. Don

  3. Don says:

    Steve: I can’t wait to see photos of the salt works.

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