5/9/2013 – Agua Verde again

We had a nice stay at Candeleros visiting with our friends Doug and Linda on s/v Que Linda and meeting new friends Deanna and Bob on s/v Deanna B. Then when Jim and Teresa on s/v Pochteca also sailed in, it was clearly party time. We all spent an evening at the Villa del Palmar bar drinking two-for-one beers, eating pizza and visiting. “Two-for-one” beers is a wee bit of a misnomer since the price of the beers is double what it ought to be at $49 pesos each. So, 2 for 1 just brings the beers down to a more or less regular bar price. A lot of things have changed since we first sailed into Candeleros in the summer of 2011. Gone are the free pastries and coffee kayaked out to the anchored boats by pretty young senoritas. Gone is the free pass to use the hotel’s pool and other facilities for the price of simply registering your boat’s name with the reception desk. Gone is the overall welcoming attitude. In its place is the privilege of spending money at the bar and restaurant after registering at reception where you are informed that you are not allowed to use the pool unless you buy a “day pass”. A day pass costs $65(US) per person and is all-inclusive. That means that the holder is entitled to use of the pool and also, if we understood correctly, all food and drinks are also included. The pass is good from 10:00 AM until 6:00 PM. That’s probably not that bad a deal if one were to spend the day eating and drinking alongside the pool, especially at the prices the hotel charges for food and drink. But, we passed on the pass and instead just bought happy hour beers and ate pizza.

Before Deanna B departed, they turned us on to a few new movies. We made a copy of “The Help” which we watched 2 nights ago. What a great movie. Of course, the book was even better. I passed the DVD on to Que Linda but first, I decided to try a sort of variation on the message in a bottle. I wrote on the back of the DVD envelope that I would like this DVD returned to Siempre Sabado eventually. In the meantime I asked that folks watch the movie, write their boat name and maybe the date on the back of the DVD envelope and pass it on. Eventually, I suspect we’ll be in an anchorage somewhere when some boater that we don’t yet know will hear our boat name and think, “Siempre Sabado? Siempre Sabado? Now, why does that name ring a bell? Oh, wait, I know! Isn’t that the name of the boat that wanted to eventually get “The Help” back?” Anyway, that’s how I hope it goes.

Deanna and Bob inspired us to do some inshore travel. They’re Canadians but no longer have a home in Canada. Instead they have a home in mid-sized town in the mountains (7000′ elevation) somewhere between Mexico City and Guadalajara. They told us the name of the town but it escapes me right now. Anyway, they’ve been living down here for quite a few years. They’ve traveled extensively but now maintain their Mexican home and still go cruising on their sailboat now and again. Going to be fun to get our little RV this summer and start expanding our horizons beyond the seashore.

After a final evening and dinner on Que Linda, we parted ways. Doug and Linda are headed north to eventually haul their boat in San Carlos before returning to Bend, Oregon for the summer. We are continuing on down to La Paz where we’ll park the boat for a couple months while we go up to Oregon. We’re enjoying telling people that we are on a slow track to La Paz. Have been ever since we left San Carlos the day after Christmas. Here it is May 9th and we’re a little over halfway.

We’ve had a nice stay here at Agua Verde. Hiked to the tienda yesterday and then took the dinghy in to the tienda today. We were told that one of the tiendas was getting some fresh fruit and vegetables late yesterday afternoon which is why we went back today. Turned out the first tienda had a better selection. We got cantaloupe, pears, avocados, and a couple of beautiful mangos. Last time we shopped in Agua Verde, there were 2 tiendas but they’re different ones this time. In 2011 there was the Tienda Communidad as well as Maria’s. Now, as near as we could find, Maria’s is gone but one that didn’t look like it was even a real store back then is now open (Mini Market something or other – red building with a Pacifico tent in front) and was pretty well stocked.

Tomorrow, we’re planning on making a major expedition by traversing 8 nautical miles to Bahia San Marte. This is a north-protected bay just around the corner from Agua Verde. We’re trying to hit a lot of the places we missed before. San Marte is so close to Agua Verde that it is frequently passed by in favor of AV. But a 2 hour trip sounds just right for our current pace so that’s where we’re headed unless the weather makes a drastic change.

This evening we’ll be dining on Ma Po Dofu (aka “Pock Marked Ma’s Tofu” or, as we call it, “Pork Mock”) after which we’ll sit down to Season 2, Episode 5 of “Downton Abbey (thank you, Doug and Linda). What could be better than that?

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About sryoder

Steve & Lulu... retired. Had enough of the cold wet dreary fall/winter/spring in the Pacific Northwest. Bought a boat, fixed it up, sold our home and sailed to Mexico in November, 2010. Been here ever since except for occasional forays to the States (summer only, thank you) to visit the kids, parents and siblings. If you're looking for a sailing blog, this is the wrong place. This is a traveling, hunkering in, eating blog. Sailing is just how we get from place to place when we can't walk.
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2 Responses to 5/9/2013 – Agua Verde again

  1. Joan/Raymond Yoder says:

    I enjoyed the movie Help, that I ordered the book. I like to do things that way. The book is always better than the movie but I can put the characters in perspective better by watching first than reading. Probably will read it again, it was so good. Love, Mom

  2. wgward says:

    Mexico continues to become more expensive for cruisers. The only “pristine,” old Mexico area left is the Pacific Coast of Baja.

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