10/10/2013 – Very slight change of plans

After our usual leisurely breakfast, we broke camp and got ready to head out for the day.  Planning on stopping at Santispac Beach in Conception Bay where there are no stores, we decided to make a foray into Mulege for a few items before we continued south.  Let me tell you, driving an RV in Mulege is a task that should not be undertaken lightly.  And shouldn’t even be considered if your motorhome is bigger than our 20′ Dolphin.  A camper on a pickup would be OK but nothing any bigger than that.  The streets are mostly one-way with parking along one side leaving a very narrow traffic lane.  Corners are tight and the street layout is very confusing.  And, except in a few choice spots, you can pretty much forget about parking your rig.  I’d do it again if I had to but I’d try avoid it if possible.

It only took about 20 minutes to drive to Santispac.  There were only maybe 4 other camps set up and there wasn’t even one boat anchored out.  We picked a palapa on the beach, got leveled, and got ready to hunker in.  There are two guys who drive these beaches every day looking for fresh meat to buy their stuff.  They sell all the usual tourist stuff: blankets, hammocks, bracelets, silver jewelry, hats, rugs, woven pullovers, etc.  The first guy talked me into a hammock which I’ve been wanting for awhile.  Although we haggled on the price, I’m sure I still over-paid, in spite of his reassurances that it was “almost free”.   Later, another guy came by and sold us a tablecloth for Flipper as well as a glasses holder for Lulu’s sunglasses and a little woven pullover for Neil if it still fits him by the time we get back up to Eugene.  Once again I’m sure we overpaid but it didn’t hurt us and it made these guys’ day.  Customers are few and far between right now.


We decided to walk over to Ana’s Restaurant for a beer and also just to see if it was open. It was open, sort of.  There were a couple people who seemed to be working more or less (mostly they were watching TV).  They assured us that they were open.  We ordered 2 Pacificos but they didn’t have any Pacifico, only Tecate Light.  OK, we’ll have 2 Tecate Lights.  Instead of going behind the bar, which was covered with boxes of stuff, our waiter headed over to a fridge in the corner and pulled 2 cans of beer off the only 6-pack in there.  We’d just ordered 1/3 of their entire beer supply.  After we finished, I headed back to the rig to get started on my jobs and Lulu went off in search of the dump station that we had been led to believe was there as well as to check out the bathrooms, if there were any.  My main reason for staying here to do my camper projects was that I figured there would be something for Lulu to do (swim) while I was working in the camper and monopolizing the space.  However, maybe that wasn’t my best idea ever.  By the time she got back to report that she couldn’t find any dump site nor any sort of outhouse, much less an actual toilet, I’d pretty much decided to propose not staying here but pressing on to Loreto instead.  She agreed.  We managed to get $30 pesos of the $80 I’d paid for the night.  Guess she was charging me for parking for an hour or something.  But I was amazed to get anything back at all so I was happy.

Mighty damn green for a desert.

Mighty damn green for a desert.

The trip to Loreto was shown as taking about an hour and three quarters.  It was a really pleasant drive and we passed through one military checkpoint where they asked us to open the back so they could inspect.  While one soldier was inside tapping on walls and such, the other was outside engaging us in small talk.  Not sure that we always answered the question that he asked but we did our best.  He wanted to know what kind of work we do (retired) and what we used to do when we did have to work.  Asked how long we had worked before retiring.  I think he was just curious as much as anything else.  He was very friendly and polite and not at all overbearing like the uniformed officials in you-know-where seem to be all the time.  After the first guy came out he asked us what our rig cost. Now, Lulu and I were both raised to believe that you never, never, never ask someone what they paid for something.  It’s just rude and no one else’s business.  If they volunteer the info, fine but you never ask.  Raised our kids that way, too.  But, judging by the number of people our age who seem to have no problem asking point-blank what we paid for this or that,  not everyone in our generation was raised that way.  Anyway, I figured this kid was more curious than nosy and besides, for all I know there is no social taboo in Mexico about asking the cost of things.  I figure he was just trying to figure out if there was any way he might be able to look forward to getting himself a little RV and traveling around someday.  So, we told him.  Didn’t tell him what we actually paid but toned it down a little to make it seem like something he might aspire to and also so we didn’t seem so much like rich gringos.  Eventually, they wished us well and sent us on our way.

In Loreto, in spite of Dora screwing with us, we managed to find the Rivera del Mar RV Park a couple blocks from the ocean.  Really nice little park with all hook-ups, very nice clean bathrooms and showers and an easy walk to everywhere in town we’d want to go.


Our first stop was Augie’s Bar and Bait Shop.  Happy hour (1/2 price drinks) is from 4-7 every afternoon and at 5:00 they bring out free appetizers.  Wednesday is baked chocolate clams, our favorite from previous visits.  It’s a gringo bar for sure but the beer is cold, the micheladas spicy and the appetizers free.  We also always manage to meet someone interesting to talk to while we’re there.  On the walk back I managed to get a terminal strip for making the fan installation easier.

So here we are.  Still enjoying the easy life (full hook-ups).  Hoping to meet up with our friends John and Patricia (s/v Trick) sometime today.  But right now it’s time for me to make my breakfast and get my butt in gear.


About sryoder

Steve & Lulu... retired. Had enough of the cold wet dreary fall/winter/spring in the Pacific Northwest. Bought a boat, fixed it up, sold our home and sailed to Mexico in November, 2010. Been here ever since except for occasional forays to the States (summer only, thank you) to visit the kids, parents and siblings. If you're looking for a sailing blog, this is the wrong place. This is a traveling, hunkering in, eating blog. Sailing is just how we get from place to place when we can't walk.
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One Response to 10/10/2013 – Very slight change of plans

  1. Joan/Raymond Yoder says:

    Sure envy you your RVing. Really miss not having an RV although we are thinking we may get a small trailer to tow behind the pickup for our trip south in February. Sounds like you are really enjoying yourselves. Love, Mom

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